T.A.G.I growers thread

Johnny_Appleseed · Posted: Sun Jun 08, 2008 12:06 am

Hey Fatty,

Good question. Humidity is not a problem for me. I have really good ventilation and insulation which takes care of that.The windows on my rooms never get any condensation at all.

As far as temps go your probably right. Should think about heating. Have found though that the difference between heating and not is that you only have to wait a bit longer. At the moment instead of getting a harvest every 9+ weeks (I try for extended growing during the summer to get that extra kick - could take at 7-8 weeks if i wanted) i am needing to add another 2 weeks to this. The quality and quantity by adding the extra 2 weeks is the same.

Suppose i should mention that those temps i mentioned before were from a thermo that is a good 4 foot from the lights, so the actual temp at the plants would probably be 5 degrees celcius higher....

For me this is a trade off which i'm willing to make. Personally i'm not a big fan of oil heaters (or any others for that matter) in case the shit hits the fan and something catches fire. Always have enough worries with electrictiy and water as it is. Not keen on adding artificial heating to the mix. Having said that when i am home i will often during the 'day' turn on a lpg heater to get an extra bit of CO2 pumping through the flower room. Am always sure to check this every so often.

Later
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Pacman · Newbie Joined: May 21, 2008 Posts: 6 Location: NZ

you could always try having your lights on at night (coldest part of the day) &
lights off in daylight hours (warmest part of day).

Johnny_Appleseed · Posted: Sat Jun 28, 2008 1:18 am

Thanks Pacman,
Your absolutely right. I will expand on this so everyone can understand the benefits of your suggestion.

There are 3 major benefits that I can see from having your lights come on during the night, these being

1. In the Winter months, it can get cold during the night. Keep your lights on to increase the temp during the coldest hours. During the day your plants and your grow room will be alot warmer. After 'lights out' it will take several hours for your room to drop in temp.

2. During the summer months we all have a problem keeping our temps low enough. MJ likes to be at around 27C give or take 3 degrees. So in the summer your room might get to 30+ during the day - keep your oscillating fans on and your lights off. This will get those temps down.

3. I know that i have mentioned this before, but for those of you who have not read my previous posts - Take advantage of the night time power saving rate that all power companies offer. The thing is they do not make these options well known. Check out www dot powerswitch dot org dot nz. This is a great site that will let you know your best priced local supplier. And the best thing is it costs nothing to switch.

Get the basics right guys and you will be rewarded

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Johnny_Appleseed · Posted: Fri Jul 04, 2008 1:19 am

Hi All,

Here's a quick tip that might save you indoor growers some time. Basically this is for 20+ grows from cuttings –it will not really apply for less. For the folk that already have some skin in the game it might not be anything new, but for those of you who are just starting to 'upgrade' your grows to the next level then read on.

For me at least the space in my grow rooms is fully utilised. I have enough room to walk and water and that's about it. I'm of the opinion that the piggy's valuation of your grow tends to be taken with more substance from the Judges, then your own valuation would. I suggest to anyone who gets done to challenge this because until this happens the over inflated value that the filth put on our crops are going to keep putting people in jail and victimizing people that are not trying to do f**k all wrong, but just but get by. So seeing as how the sentencing does not seem to correlate i.e. done for 20 plants or done for 80 ends up in about the same jail time (and obviously no one wants to get caught but face the facts it does happen, and everyone that does get caught always thought that it would not happen to them) I'm of the opinion that you have to go for it. Now i know that this might raise some eyebrows and cause others to furrow theirs with a 'commercial growing is not what this site is about you bad reprehensible blah f**king blah....encouraging people to blah f**king blah...' but for all of you who do not grow, but smoke, where do you think it comes from. It's not from a guy that just grows for perrsy. No if everyone did that then only the growers would be able to smoke.......so without further ado...and sorry for the intro and political rant heres the tip

I've found one of the biggest pains when waiting for cuttings to strike is that 80% will strike within 10-14 days (that's during the current climate...during Oct-Dec you can expect 4-10 days, depending on strain and skill of the grower) and the remaining 20% seem to take up to 2 weeks longer. When space is at a premium (i keep all my cuttings in a covered tray on a 24c heating pad) this can be a real pain.

If like me you put your cuttings into jiffy's you generally tend to wait until the roots start to show until you know that they have struck.

But what i have starting doing and found to be successful is after getting approx 80% showing roots out of the side of the pucks , take the top off your tray for approx 2 hours and then check on the remaining cuttings that are not showing roots. If they have wilted then leave them for a couple of more days ....if not transplant them (i use pb3/4's for the first repot). The great thing about this is that you do not need the roots to show out the sides of the puck before you plant. Remember that pucks are about an inch in diameter so just because there are no roots showing on the outside there might be on the inside.

This has saved me around 2 weeks which means you can get your next set of cuttings in instead of having to wait for cuttings that are abit slow.

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Johnny_Appleseed · Posted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 11:36 pm

Hey,

Well I have personally had 3 Mother F@&king power cuts today....Never a good time. However i would like to give all you growers my recommendation .

I previously swore by the 'manual ' timers. The one where you set the pins to select when the power goes on/off. Used to think that these were great....However during a power cut these Manual timers have no F@&king battery backup.....so what does this mean...keep reading

Today i had 3 power cuts....my flower room was in 'lights out' during this period ....because my timers have a battery backup, the lights are going to go on at the right time (currently on 2000-0800 On and 0800-2000 off cycle. The power cuts have had no effect...If i had the old 'pin' timers....then it would be different...

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dead_air_fairy · Posted: Thu Jul 31, 2008 11:40 am

i recently had a look at some of the shades sog sells and was shocked at the price ( from $29 to $259 ). this got me thinking of alternatives and i thought an old washing machine case could easily do the job.

looking about at broken down washing machines they are not priced very high at all, seems a lot of sellers just want rid of them ( $0 ). use the case with a little DIY and bingo you have a cheap shade.

send the rest off to be recycled.

ps. a drier would work too.

goony · Heavy User Joined: Jun 08, 2005 Posts: 126

Poor mans CO2 , buy carbonated pure water and simply spray it on plants during light cycle, carefull not to super saturate them tho lol

Johnny_Appleseed · Posted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 12:54 am

Hi All,

Well this is more of a reminder to everyone. For those of you who have not read my previous posts - this is for indoor growers in soil

This time of the year can be a bit confusing for growers who are not experienced. Unless your like Mastayoda and his Jedi's and have a climate controller, you have to be aware of the seasons.

Right now in NZ you need to up your watering schedule from every 7-10 days to every 4-5 days.

This can stuff alot of people up. The weather still feels like it is shit but the temperature is actually (esp when you consider the heat from the lights) alot higher.

Your plants will need alot more regular tending now then they did even 3 weeks ago

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paula · Posted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 2:24 am

Johnny_Appleseed · Posted: Wed Oct 08, 2008 11:09 pm

Hi,

Increased watering needs at this time of the year and more so as we go through summer can cause problems and pains in a garden. If you water too much you risk getting root rot in your plants as well as washing away more of your soil from your drainage holes.

Watering to little stresses plants unnecessarily and can lead to surface rooting.

So with that in mind here's a couple of things that might help out

1.Line the bottom of your containers with newspaper - this will allow the excess moisture to drain off and stop your soil coming out and messing up your floor

2. On top of the paper lining in the bottom of your pots put a layer of pumice - this will allow for proper drainage.

3. Sit your pots in saucers to catch any excess run off to help save your floors

4. When transplanting remember to 1 - 2 inches (depending on container size of course) free at the top of the container for watering

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Johnny_Appleseed · Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 12:55 am

Hi all,

Had a plant problem the other day that i could not work out and stumbled upon a site that was really helpful. While it won't solve all your plants woe's it's a really nice site that I am sure will help out alot of people.....

Check it out....(just copy the link and remove the spaces....always a good idea not too link directly to external sites from here)

http: //www. bbc. co. uk/gardening/advice/pests_and_diseases/popup.shtml

They say that they are continually updating their databases as well .... I was really impressed..

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Johnny_Appleseed · Posted: Thu Oct 30, 2008 12:55 am

The Tips below are things that i never took on board for along time, but they make a big difference for what is basically S(weet)F(uck)A(ll) effort.

1.Rotate your plants each week. The light from a bulb is more intense at the center of the bulb than it is at the ends.This is also good if your making the most of your lights and having plants on the "outta" due to "land" restrictions.

2.Clean your bulbs each month. Dust and dirt can dramatically decrease the amount of light emitted. Just use a moist, NOT fucking dripping wet, cloth. Go in an hour before the lights turn on and wipe the bulbs down.

3.Place your hand where the light hits the foliage. If you feel to much warmth, the light is too close. This is obviously subjective. If you need to put a thermometer under the light at the top of your plants and leave it there for 2 minutes. Then make sure that your babies are not getting over 32 Celsius.

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HOFF · Enthusiast Joined: Sep 22, 2008 Posts: 52 Location: China

"I've found one of the biggest pains when waiting for cuttings to strike is that 80% will strike within 10-14 days (that's during the current climate...during Oct-Dec you can expect 4-10 days, depending on strain and skill of the grower) and the remaining 20% seem to take up to 2 weeks longer. When space is at a premium (i keep all my cuttings in a covered tray on a 24c heating pad) this can be a real pain. "

This is why alot of experienced growers and literature regarding this recommend that you always take more clones than needed and use onlythe best!!!the rest can be sold,given away or planted outdoors etc...otherwise they will likely flower 2+ weeks behind the rest of the room causing a staggered harvest!!!

Johnny_Appleseed · Posted: Fri Oct 31, 2008 11:05 pm

MrNiceGuyNZ · Forum Moderator Joined: Sep 18, 2005 Posts: 2904


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